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This small project started because I needed a 16 x 9 projection
screen, and didn't see the value in the commercial tensioned
screens, which run $1000 and up here in Canada. While hanging out in
the AVS Forum, I
learned that some people were using 'blackout cloth' with good
results. So I decided to build my own tensioned screen using that
material and some cheap lumber. Here are the details |

This
shows the parts used to make the screen. It's really very simple. I
used 1 x 4 fir framing pieces, then mitered the ends using a 10"
miter saw. I used Fir because it's hard, meaning it will be more
rigid and hold staples better. I don't know if this is necessary.
You could save a few dollars using a cheaper lumber. The other parts
are some plain old metal angles from Home Depot, and some screws.
For
Screen cloth, I went to 'FabricLand', and bought some 'blackout
cloth' that is used to line curtains for light blocking. This
material has an off-white side, and a white side. To my untrained
eye, the material on the white side looks exactly like a matte white
screen material. Same color, texture, and gain, which I believe is
around 1.3 (based on comments from other people who have used this
stuff for a projection screen). This material comes on a roll 54"
wide, and can be stretched a couple of inches in width, meaning you
can make a 96 x 54. 16:9 screen with it. I paid $8.54 per linear
yard.
Finally,
I purchased 3 yards of a felt-like black cloth, which I will staple
to the framing members. |
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This
images shows the black cloth stapled
around each framing member. The first one I did wound up having a
couple of wrinkles in it, because I tried to staple one side first
all down the length of the framing piece, then staple the other. I
had a tough time this way. On the other pieces, I basically worked
my way down the frame, stapling the cloth tight as I went. This
worked perfectly. |

This
image shows some detail about the stapling, and how the angle pieces
were screwed on to give the frame some rigidity (in this picture,
the screws weren't in yet - I used 3/4" wood screws, and put one in
each hole). One word about the stapling: If your staple gun doesn't
set the staples into the wood well, then continue pulling on the
cloth while you hammer down the staple. That way, the tension force
is spread across the whole staple instead of just the prongs.
This picture also shows how I finished the ends of each piece.
Basically, I just folded the cloth around the ends and stapled it
down, much like wrapping a Christmas present. All that was done
prior to assembling the frame pieces |
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The
next step was to stretch the cloth onto the frame. Rather than
describe it, I suggest going to this site:
How to stretch a canvas.
However, this site shows how to stretch a canvas for a painting.
This means the face of the cloth is stretched over the front of the
frame and pulled behind it and stapled on the sides. In our case, we
want the 'face' of the cloth behind the frame facing through it, and
we want the staples on the back. So I laid the frame face down, laid
the cloth face down over the back, then pulled it tight and stapled
according to the instructions on that web site. It was easy, and
took maybe half an hour. |
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This is the frame with the screen stretched across the back,
face down. If you find that the screen is too flexible after
it's all done, I would recommend nailing some 1/16" ply or
MDF to the back. That would make a 'composite' structure
that should be extremely strong, and would also protect the
screen from puncture damage. My screen turned out perfectly
flat, so I didn't have to do that. |
Here's
the finished project, although this photo doesn't do it justice. It
looks very professional, and the black cloth border makes for a
great mask. The frame is very strong where it counts, which is in
the ability to hold its tension (i.e. the frame pieces won't sag or
bow in).
However, it's fairly flimsy in torsion, which means that you may
have to bolt all four corners to the wall. I got lucky, and mine
hangs completely flat, so I just screwed a
couple of flat metal hangers to the back and hung it from the
unfinished framed wall of my theater to test it out and get a feel
for the geometry of the room, projector mount, etc.
I'm
extremely happy with the way the screen came out - movies look
gorgeous, and there's not a flaw in the surface. No creases,
wrinkles, uneven finish, etc. It really does look like a
professional movie screen, and my total cost was $75. It took me two
nights to build, working about 2 hours a night, including the time
it took to buy the parts.
If I were
going to build it again, one change I might make would be to get
some rails and spline used to make 'fly screens', and use that to
pin the fabric down in the back. That way, if the fabric gets
damaged, or develops wrinkles, you could simply pull out the splines
and stretch a new cloth into place.
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About recommended screen material and types
of heavy white vinyl you can read on 'Additional Info' page of the
site. |
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